--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- IMPERIAL EUROPE
August 17-27, 2017
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AUGUST 17-27
TRAFALGAR: IMPERIAL EUROPE
GERMANY FLAG
New York City-Munich
Flew from Newark airport, on my way to Munich to join Trafalgar's Imperial Europe Tour. Changed planes in Venice and arrived in Munich to find out my luggage was not on the plane. Got picked up by the Trafalgar Tour Director, Lara Viola, and brought to the Sheraton Westpark.
https://trafalgar.com/usa/tours/imperial-europe
August 18
Munich
First day in Munich didn't start well for me: my luggage didn't arrive in Munich with me! Our Tour Director picked our group at the airport and after checking in at the Sheraton Westpark we went on a city tour. Residenz Museum (served as the seat of government and residence of the Bavarian dukes, electors and kings from 1508 to 1918), Opera House, Marienplatz, Glockenspiel, Hofbrauhaus, St Peter's Church, Frauenkirche.
Had a pork sandwich at the Viktualenmarkt. Also sat at a sidewalk cafè in front of the Glockenspiel for a stein of beer.
August 19
Regensburg-Prague
We left Munich early and drove to Regensburg whose medieval center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Toured the town and later had lunch at a little shop Historische Wurstküche zu Regensburg which has been serving sausages since 1146.
CZECH REPUBLIC FLAG
Arrived in Prague late afternoon, checked in at Andels by Vienna House. Then after a short shopping spree I joined the group at a local restaurant U Císařů, which opened in the Middle Ages. After dinner we did a city tour riding in a private tram with local guide Andrè which included a walk along the Charles Bridge.
August 20
Prague
This morning we went on a walking tour of the Prague Castle.
Next we crossed the bridge to check out the Jewish Quarter and then the monument to Jan Hus, the astronomical clock, the Church of Our Lady before Tyn, and St Nicholas Church.
Next activity today was a boat trip on the Vltava River with buffet lunch of salads, potato pancakes, goulash, ham, and various desserts. Along the river we saw several beautiful buildings from the Middle Ages and a famous new one called Fred and Ginger by famous architect Richard Gehry.
August 21
Bratislava-Budapest
SLOVAKIA FLAG
HUNGARY FLAG
Tonight's event is a cruise on the Danube with buffet dinner and a wonderful view of Budapest by night!
August 22
Budapest
Sightseeing this morning starts at Buda's Castle District, which with Budapest is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. Matthias Church is a Roman Catholic church, the venue of Hungarian King Matthias' two weddings, located in front of the Fisherman's Bastion. The first church on the site was founded by Saint Stephen, King of Hungary in 1015. This building was destroyed in 1241 by the Mongols and the current building was constructed in the florid late Gothic style in the second half of the 14th century and was extensively restored in the late 19th century. The Fisherman's Bastion's seven towers represent the seven Magyar tribes that settled in the Carpathian Basin in 896. From the towers and the terrace a panoramic view exists of Danube, Margaret Island, Pest to the east and the Gellért Hill.
Next we boarded the bus and crossed the Chain Bridge to the Pest side, passed by the Synagogue, the Opera House, the House of Terror Museum, Museum of Fine Arts and the Palace of Art (Műcsarnok). We got off to see the Heroes Square (or Hősök tere) with its bronze statues of Magyar heroes and kings.
At the center of Heroes' Square stands the Millennium Monument, designed in 1894 by Albert Schickedanz and completed thirty-five years later. The many statues were designed by György Zala. Soaring above Heroes' Square is the Millennium Column, the focal point of the Millennium Monument which is topped with a statue of the archangel Gabriel. Behind the column is a semicircular colonnade with statues of famous men who made their mark on Hungarian history. Statues atop the colonnades symbolize War, Peace, Work and Welfare, and Knowledge and Glory. Around the base of the monument are a number of equestrian statues honoring the seven chieftains of the Hungarian tribes who, led by Árpád, conquered the area now known as Hungary.
Did not join the group's afternoon trip and lunch in a quaint village outside Budapest. Instead I went to the Gellért Baths and Spa which is decorated with a wealth of original Art Nouveau furnishings, artistic mosaics, stained glass windows and sculptures. The complex includes thermal baths, which are small pools containing water from Gellért hill's mineral hot springs, saunas and plunge pools (segregated by gender), an open-air swimming pool which can create artificial waves every hour and an effervescent swimming pool. Enjoyed the outdoor pool and the Wave twice (once every hour for 15 minutes) plus the sauna and the thermal pool. Had a beer and a piece of chocolate at the Café Gellért.
Dinner was at a local family's restaurant and winery, Schieszl, in Budakalász. We started with wine tasting in their cellar and dinner was a delicious local fare (sliced Mangalica ham with poncichter beans, pork spare rib confit with lecsó vegetables, Zwetschenbuchen plum cake and strudel pastry and cream) from the family recipe and more wine. Konrád Schieszl, who runs the restaurant and winery, tells that during the war his grandfather was brave enough to hide his Jewish friend from Nazi persecution for six months, hiding them in one of the giant wine barrels.
August 23
Budapest
First thing this morning is a visit to the Hungarian Parliament where the crown of King Stephen is displayed. About 100,000 people were involved in construction, during which 40 million bricks, half a million precious stones and 40 kilograms (88 lb) of gold were used. Since World War II the legislature became unicameral and today the government uses only a small portion of the building. During the People's Republic of Hungary a red star perched on the top of the dome, but was removed in 1990. Mátyás Szűrös declared the Hungarian Republic from the balcony facing Kossuth Lajos Square on 23 October 1989.
Next we enjoyed cappuccino and sinfully delicious palacsinta, a crepe with a filling made from rum, raisin, walnuts, and lemon zest, served with a chocolate sauce, at the famous Gundel Restaurant. In 1910, Károly Gundel took over the original restaurant's lease and his son János Gundel, who had learned the hospitality trade at other hotels and restaurants, took over the restaurant's management. He created a dramatic and luxurious style that increased its popularity and created an international reputation. In 1949, the restaurant was nationalized and operated by state company Hungar Hotels, but it was reopened by Americans Ronald S. Lauder and George Lang in 1992. Consultants Adam Tihany and graphic artist Milton Glaser (my teacher in Graphic Design at SVA) assisted in its design.
Lunch was at a Hungarian town called Gyõr just before the Austrian border. The Szent Laszlo church has a painting of the Madonna which supposedly shed blood as tears.
AUSTRIA FLAG
Arrived in Vienna and checked in at the Hilton Danube. This evening's dinner is at a restaurant that can only be described as crazy, kitschy, noisy boisterous, out-of-this-world, Marchfelderhof Restaurant. The ceiling is cramped with all kinds of musical instruments. The walls were covered with autographed photos of celebrities. But the schnapps, wine, food were pretty good. The toilets were something else!
August 24
Vienna
First thing on our schedule this morning was Maria Theresa's summer palace Schoenbrunn. No photographs allowed inside so here are the ones I took of the grounds.
Next we did a walking tour of the Vienna city center. Saw the Lipizzaner horses in their stables, the Opera House, the Albertina, the St Stephan Church, the City Hall, etc.
Again I did not join the group on their optional concert and dinner. I opted instead of going to the city center for dinner and a concert at the Vienna Opera House. Took the Metro from Stadion station to Karlsplatz. for my 6:30 dinner reservation at Plachuttas Gasthaus zum Oper. Had a Campari Soda aperitif then had Geeiste Gurkensuppe (Iced Cucumber Soup) with shrimps and chives. Then my main course was Schulterscherzelgulasch vom Weideochsen (Austrian Goulash). Red wine with dinner was Wiener Trilogies 2013. Great dinner.
It's time for a Wiener Mozart Konzerte by the Wiener Mozart Orchester at the Wiener Staatsoper. Several Mozart opera arias, overtures, etc. plus de rigueur encore pieces like Strauss' Blue Danube and the Radetsky March complete with hand clapping by the audience. Wonderful night at the Opera House!
August 25
Melk-Eagle's Nest-Salzburg
We left Vienna for Salzburg but stopped first at the Benedictine Abbey in Melk, Lower Austria, on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Danube river, adjoining the Wachau valley. The abbey was founded in 1089 when Leopold II, Margrave of Austria gave one of his castles to Benedictine monks from Lambach Abbey. A monastic school, the Stiftsgymnasium Melk, was founded in the twelfth century, and the monastic library soon became renowned for its extensive manuscript collection. Unfortunately we only got to ssee the grounds of the abbey.
We arrived in the outskirts of Salzburg and checked in at the Hubertushof in Anif. Then we joined our local guide for a brief trip to the Hellbrunn Palace Park to see the Gazebo used in the filming of the Sound of Music (Lisl and Rolf sang "I am 16 going on 17....").
Next we went to Adolph Hitler's Kehlsteinhaus (Eagle's Nest) Retreat in the Austrian Alps. It is reached from the parking lot through a tunnel then an elevator. The Kehlsteinhaus is a Third Reich-era building erected atop the summit of the Kehlstein, a rocky outcrop that rises above the Obersalzberg near the town of Berchtesgaden. It was used exclusively by members of the Nazi Party for government and social meetings. The building's main reception room is dominated by a fireplace of red Italian marble presented by Italian dictator Benito Mussolini, which was damaged by Allied soldiers chipping off pieces to take home as souvenirs.Today it is open seasonally as a restaurant, beer garden, and tourist site.
August 26
Salzburg-Munich
This morning we started with a walking tour of Salzburg in the Gardens of the Mirabell Palace. The palace with its gardens is a listed cultural heritage monument and part of the Historic Center of the City of Salzburg UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Walked around the town and saw Mozarts's birthplace,
Drove on to Munich and checked in at the Sheraton Westpark before we got back on the bus again to go to the Gasthof Hinterbrühl, for our Farewell Dinner. Located in a nature protected area of the Isar banks in southern Munich, right in front of the Hinterbrühler Lake, the very popular and busy beer garden lies at the Isar channel, which runs parallel to the Isar river.
August 27
Munich-Naples
Time to end this trip and start another trip. This time I'm flying to Naples to join Tauck's A Week in... Amalfi Coast, Capri & Rome tour.
